Costa Rica is a Dream

Costa Rica is, was, and always will be a dream.  It’s almost everyone’s first trip to Central America, and there is a reason for it.  It’s absolutely stunning, cheap to get to, ‘exotic,’ and unbelievably filled with biodiversity!  The landscape is constantly changing and every town has something new to offer!  If you’ve never been, please please, book yourself a flight ASAP and try and sneak a few extra days off of work to maximize your time.  The country may be small, but transportation still takes a long time to get from point A to points B,C,D,E,F,G – the list goes on! 

I first visited Costa Rica three years ago in May 2010 with my college roommate Tim, and another good friend from college, Mike.  We graduated a year earlier, and this was our first trip abroad.  We planned every second of this trip out, something I will always avoid in the future if possible.  Flexibility, along with price, are my two #1 priorities while traveling.  We did loads of research and booked activities for 4 out of 7 days, with travel days built in.  We whitewater rafted, canyoned, ziplined, and went caving.  We visited Arenal and Manuel Antonio National Park and spent a day on the beach in Manuel Antonio, attempting to surf and playing a game that we invented called “Rock Bocce” – A combination of Bocce Ball and using the Earth’s supplied materials of rocks, the beach, and other rocks.  It was unbelievably hot, to the point, that our time spent on the beach was 98% spent in the Pacific Ocean (the other 2% playing Rock Bocce), and it was still hot, as the ocean water was over 80 (28) degrees!  It was an unforgettable trip, but I’m really glad I returned on this backpacking trip.

Most backpackers skip Costa Rica, not because it doesn’t have a lot to offer (see paragraph 1), but because of the price.  Costa Rica is freaking EXPENSIVE.  It’s basically a few years dated version of America, with almost the exact same prices, sometimes more expensive – especially in the most touristy of destinations.  My journey to Costa Rica began from San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua – Lennart and I had just spent the weekend having a wee-bit too much fun in San Juan del Sur and we were on our way to the magnificent, dual symmetrically coned Isla de Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America, 6th largest in North America following the great lakes, and your second fun fact of the day, the almost site, of the world famous Panama Canal. 

Lennart and I have hiked a lot of volcanoes.  There are only so many you can do on one trip, and other than relaxing a 6+ or a 10+ hour hike awaited us in Ometepe or simply chilling out on the lake.  On our Chicken Bus on the way there, we asked each other, would you rather just go to Costa Rica instead – we both agreed and our journey began.  Seven hours later, a 4th border crossing, and 5th country together – (man did we have an epic trip!) we arrived in Playa del Coco on the Nicoya Peninsula.  R&R was on the docket.  And did we ever.  A relaxed night, a relaxed day til midafternoon, I watched a little March Madness (America’s college basketball tournament) and had Lennart, possibly the first Norwegian ever, fill out a bracket as well.  He got his first taste of last second winning baskets and near misses – what an exciting time!  That night, we both entered into a Texas Hold’em Poker Tournament with both English and Spanish (mostly) spoken at the table, which was a first for me, as Vegas requires the only language spoken at the table to be English.  It was a 30 person tournament, paying the top 6 – we more than held our own.  He cashed in 6th and I finished in 3rd – hell yeah, $200+ more to travel with!

The following day, I went for a beach run on the picturesque Coco Bay, Lennart and I peppered on the beach (bump, set, spike between two people) and eventually found our way into a game with a bunch of locals.  We were initially on separate teams, and eventually united on the same team to the chagrin of the locals, and once we were, we ran the table on them, kindly bowing out as darkness was fast approaching, leaving without any injuries other than sore as hell feet and knees from diving and jumping on the sand that couldn’t be more than 2″ (5cm) deep.

We went out for drinks, we met a girl named Sarah who has been working diving in Playa del Coco for a few months, and her and I shared contact info – as we might be on the same boat from Panama to Colombia in mid May – we’ve been in contact ever since, despite talking for no more than 10 or 15 minutes, and this may actually work out – how I LOVE traveling so so very much!

After a good night’s sleep, a few souvenir purchases for Lennart, we began our 9+ hr trip to Santa Teresa, also on the Nicoya Peninsula, about 100km by way of the crow’s flight, but not for us feeble humans.  We’ll have to go the looooong route…….

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A New Direction

Goooooooooood morrrrrrrrrrning WORLD!!!

And helllllllllllo from PANAMA!! Home to the world famous Panama Canal and I’ll let you know what else after a few weeks here!  For now, I spent last night in Panama’s second city, David, and today I’m making my way to Bocas del Toro – which every other backpacker I’ve met has told me it’s an absolute dream of a location.  The archipelago (if someone wants to Google that for me, that’d be fantastic!) of islands (that may be redundant?, but that ‘archi’ word is just a mouthful to try and say) has appeared gorgeous in all of my travel friends photos! 

Fortunately and unfortunately, one of the guys I’ve been traveling with on and off since Guatemala, Scott, has recently arrived in Colombia and was raving about Panama and especially Bocas, and he wrote me last night saying, no matter how much you love Central America and how great it is – get to Colombia ASAP!!  ….. And this is the exact sentiment that almost every other backpacker ahead of me on the ‘backpacking trail’ has said as well.  Everyone raves about Guatemala in Central America (easily my favorite country) and Colombia – which I’m sure it will live up to its hype!

Last night, after arriving in David, we wandered around the city, found an ATM and stopped into a grocery store.   Grocery shopping is one of the cooler cultural experiences anywhere you go, seeing the prices, the people and the variety of food – especially the produce, of which, half of it I do not even recognize.  The prices were unreal, $2.50 for a large box of cereal, $14 for a handle of Smirnoff, Flor de Cana Rum for $6.50 – the best rum in the entire world.  If you haven’t heard of it yet, go to your local massive liquor store and buy a bottle.  Now! Quit reading and go buy it, it’s incredible! 

Following our grocery store experience, we eventually found the Central Park and popped into a department store just for fun.  We had already fallen in love with Panama within hours, but this confirmed it.  Jeans for $15, dress pants for $12, women’s sandals for $2 to $8, dining room table and chairs for $400, underwear for $2, shirts for $3-$5, and my jaw dropped when I saw multiple pairs of nice men’s dress shoes for $16!!!  They’re $100+ at home for $16.00!!!  If you’re a big Christmas shopper, it’s literally worth your money to buy a flight to Panama with an empty suitcase, explore the country, and shop for all your loved ones at home!  Oh, and glasses frames were $2 instead of $200 at home!  Unreal!

Liraz, the Israeli I’ve been traveling with for a few days now, and I left the department store.  I purchased two street hot dogs (thank god to finally see street food again – I’ve missed it!) for $1 each, fully loaded.  Then we grabbed dinner for $3 and $4 respectively and I was beyond full.  After our hunger was quenched, we walked back to The Purple House, our hostel, in which every.single.thing. – every bit of the hostel is a shade of lavender – my sister would love it!  I caught up with some friends, read a few things online, and eventually made it to bed, but not before a little brain storming and reading a friend’s blog.

This leads me to the point of this post.  This whole time I’ve been using KGG (KyleGoesGlobal) I always had a desire to make it uber informational (still can and will), but I’d rather do it via my experiences.  I’ve been trying to make my posts more informational with advice and the glories of traveling, as opposed to just writing about my experiences, the crazy ones and the more sane ones.  I hope to share more of these in the future, I’ll work on the time that I have and try and get some fun posts up for you more often.  I’m here to entertain, to share my experiences, and this is where I’d like to head with this blog for now. 

The tablet I purchased for my trip is easily the most inefficient thing in the entire world, which massively inhibits making blog posts that are visually stunning while I’m traveling.  Thus, it also makes it a nightmare to load photos into all of my posts, as it randomly will delete them and other times will not load them at all.  I will try to incorporate photos here and there for some highlights, but while traveling it’s hard enough to find time to write, let alone add photos to the posts, and format it.  I hope to write more here and there, and I hope to provide you with a few minutes distraction and laughter on a regular basis. 

As for me now, I’m on my way to Bocas del Toro Archi-something….and a hammock between palm trees, a cocktail, a beach, and a turquoise blue sea are beckoning my name.  Happy travels and reading everyone!

-Kyle

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Ever bought a bicycle in Guatemala? What about two?

San Pedro La Laguna is a criss crossed town of backpackers, locals, and hippies all coinciding together on Lake Atitlan.  It’s definitely a party town and we did our fair share.  On the day of our departure, Lennart and I quickly popped into a bike shop that we’d heard about earlier in the day.  There were not many options, except for one bike, which was on sale for (post haggling) about $90 which we deemed to be to steep – at the time anyway.  In retrospect, it probably would have been our best option, but we wanted to continue shopping around.  After a stunning ride up the winding roads overlooking the absolute most beautiful lake, Lake Atitlan, and through the wild roads of the Western Highlands of Guatemala, we arrived in Antigua later that day. 

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San Pedro

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Antigua Chicken Buses

We began our bike shopping here, but we knew that it would be too expensive to buy in such a Gringo heavy town.  We asked a local cop about any small towns around and he sent us to San Pedro Las Huertas – after a $0.18 Chicken Bus ride we arrived in the town adorned with a beautiful town square and very helpful (minded) people. 

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San Pedro Las Huertas Central Park

Our first shop we popped into was laughable – although being our first stop, I test rode a bike, but no way on earth was this bike going to make it out of the town, let alone across El Salvador. 

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First Shop Stop

We wandered up the street, stopped into some random people’s houses and asked locals on the street if they’d sell their bike or if they had any friends that wanted to sell theirs.  (Guatemalan’s will do anything to earn a buck.  – Never once were we looked at with disgust for asking such a question.)  We stopped at this random man’s house when we saw a bike inside his front door (read:  alleyway into his home with a bike inside). 

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Checking Out Rodrigo's Bike

I believe his name was Rodrigo – he showed us the bike, no luck, and he walked us to his friends place? (Charles) with a bike shop – I say that with a question, because we’re not really sure who he was taking us too.  Rodrigo knocked on the door and said bike shop owner wasn’t home. 

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Knock Knock

Another local stood nearby, with his fly, not just zipper, but also his pants button, completely undone.  To add to his astonishing wardrobe, he lacked a shoelace on one foot, but he also wanted to help us out so we weren’t going to shy away from another local lending us a hand.  So there we went, McFly, Rodrigo, Lennart and I – the fantastic four – we wandered down the worn down street another 1.5 blocks to the town square so Rodrigo and McFly could – get this – use the pay phone to call Charles to see where he was and when he’d return. 

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McFly making a call with Rodrigo deep in thought

Charles was at the beach with his wife for the day, but we were informed that he had “at least 10-15 bikes” and that we should return at 7am the following morning.  We happily flipped the equivalent of $0.12 to Rodrigo and McFly for the phone call, said our peace, thanked them and toll them we’d return the following day. 

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7am is way way too early for us.  Plus, what’s wrong with later?  The next day we returned around lunch time, knocked on the door and asked for Charles, he was happy to see us, and showed us his bikes.  We didn’t purchase any – not even close.  I won’t describe them in detail, but they looked like this:

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I asked him if there were any that would, ya know, ride?  He said, “oh no, just these.”
 
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What Charles, Rodrigo and McFly were thinking, and how on Earth they thought these bicycles, fully loaded with our gear, would get us across a country, I am not sure, but nevertheless, we thanked them for their help and moved on to Guatemala City.  Upon arrival at our hostel after safely navigating the chaotic capital of Guatemala home to 3 million people, we were eventually directed via word of mouth to the tiny town of San Andres Iztapa, about 75 minutes via Chicken Bus outside of Guatemala City and 35 minutes from Antigua. 

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San Andres Iztapa

I gave the phone number a call, the girl on the other end and I attempted to speak Spanish until we both realized we were native English speakers.  She happily gave me directions to shop – once we got off the Chicken Bus, go up the hill from the church towards the cemetery and you can’t miss it. 

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Maya Pedal

She was right and later that day we stumbled upon Maya Pedal – a shop with volunteers from Western Countries working with locals and old donated bikes from the states and Canada to repair and fix bicycles.  This shop was perfect for our needs.

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I really should've bought this clown bike

Remember that the average height for locals is some where around 5’6″ (this is scientific fact – a measurement based on the insight that I am at least a head taller than every single one of them).  Any and all bicycles frames that Maya Pedal has been donated were still available for the 6’2″ Lennart and I to begin custom construction of our bikes out of a numerous variety of bicycle parts straight from the 1980s. 
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First, we each chose a frame, handle bars, seats and the volunteers began to construct our bicycles from scratch for us.  They were unbelievably helpful, kind, and eager to show us what was best for our journey.  In the meantime, we wandered town for awhile, each fulfilled our daily coconut quota, and tried the bikes for the first time. 
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My bike made it ~20 feet (on a downhill) and it was down for the count.  The rear tire was rubbing on the frame and my bicycle wouldn’t budge another inch. 

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Maybe this guy broke my bike? But no, this guy has NOTHING to do with this post - we just saw him every day in San Andres and how could I NOT include him?!

Over the next 1.5 days, my bike began to take form with minor tweaks and adjustments, two days later we returned.  We did several test rides, and each time, either the gears wouldn’t work properly, the pedal(s) were loose, the brakes needed repairs, or the handle bars needed adjustments.  Either way though, each time I gave it a test ride, a finished product began to take shape. 

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Fixing up our bikes

Two days later, we returned via our third day of Chicken Bus rides and our bikes were almost ready.  A few more test rides around town, confirming everything was in shape, that the wheels were trued, the brakes (semi) worked, and the pedals were firmly attached and we purchased our bicycles. 

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Ready to ride!

They cost about $95 with a bike rack and everything else tweaked into place.  We took photos with all of the volunteers and local workers and thanked them immensely for their hard work. 

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Our hard working Maya Pedal team

We left them with a few liters of cold beer for an extra form of appreciation of their work and Lennart and I were off for our first ride.  It wasn’t long before we realized that our shirts would not be necessary in the mid day Guatemalan sun. 

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A close call for Lennart

At this moment, the phrase “HOSO” – “Helmets On, Shirts Off” was formed. 

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First ride to Antigua

After bracing my luggage rack above the bike’s rear tire (a $1.25 purchase of an oversized milk crate which was previously the coconut ladies seat – I told you ANYTHING is for sale in Guatemala for the right price), Santo and Diablo safely delivered Lennart and I all the way to Antigua, 18km later, without any problems or break downs for the first time in their short existences. 

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Our bike shopping was complete, however, we were definitely going to be roughing it for the next month.  I couldn’t be more excited!

Categories: El Danger Zone - Bicycling Central America, Guatemala | Tags: , , , | 4 Comments

Introduction to “El Danger Zone’s” – Our Central America Bicycle Trip

Flash back a year ago – I came up with the idea of bicycling across of El Salvador.  I knew it was a Central American country, I knew it was seemingly feasible, I knew nothing else about the country – and to be honest, today, I know a few sites here and there, but I still have loads to learn and experience.

Flash forward a few months, I book my flight to travel the world, a few months later, I quit my job, and one last flash to just over two months into my travels I arrive at El Gato Negro Hostel in Xela, Guatemala mid afternoon after a three hour Chicken Bus ride.  I was fresh out of a backpacking relationship heartbreak and really looking for a fresh start.  I was going to take Spanish classes, live in a home stay with a Guatemala family and after a few weeks of traveling full time with the aforementioned girl, I was really hoping to meet a really cool guy or two to travel with for awhile.

Enter Lennart, and five other guys the instance I walked into the hostel in Xela.  We all grabbed pizzas and beers that night – I was off to a great start.  That night, I stumbled across a tourism trolley, and the idea to rent it as a “Party Trolley” popped into my mind immediately from my previous experiences in Chicago. 
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The next night, Saturday, we were off on it cruising around Xela, partying and dancing the night away – the 7 of us guys, 4 girls from the hostel, and 3 Guatemalan guys who I invited to join us right off the street.  By the end of the night we’d picked up another group of 3 girls and it was an absolute riot of a night! Xela was off to a great start.

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Parque Central en Xela

Over the course of the weekend, Lennart and I realized we had very similar plans – 2 weeks of Spanish courses, and then making our way through Central America over the next 3+ months and we both shared the desire to bike across a country. His original goal was Costa Rica, having never thought about El Salvador, I mentioned the idea and he jumped on board immediately. We shared the similar feeling of going with the flow and a love for beach volleyball and shortly thereafter, “El Danger Zone” became the coined name for our future trip. 

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El Danger Zone Begins

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Sunrise on Volcan Tajumulco - The highest point in Central America

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Sunrise on Volcan Tajumulco

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Volcan San Pedro in the background - we hiked from this photo to the peak

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Lennart on top of Volcan San Pedro

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On top of Volcan San Pedro

After a few more weeks of traveling Guatemala, stops at Lake Atitlan, kayaking, hiking the highest peak in Central America, Volcan Tajumulco (4,220m and summiting it from 4,000m at sunrise after sleeping in a deep freeze) (another blog about this coming soon!), and the even more difficult Volcan San Pedro – we began our bike shopping….a simple feat in a first world country – not so much in Guatemala….

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Our bicycle adventure was just beginning.  El Danger Zone was going to have loads of challenges and we knew this was only the first hurdle, but no matter what was thrown at us, we had faith we’d succeed.

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Categories: El Danger Zone - Bicycling Central America, Guatemala | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

Bicycling Across Guatemala – Day 1

Our morning began….slowly.  After a delicious hostel breakfast and packing up, we began to load our bikes.  Lennart filled up his panniers on his back tire (the side bags) and tied down his backpack with a skinny rope over the top – I must say, I was quite impressed with how good his bike looked fully loaded.  Santo was ready for the road!

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After I finished packing my stuff in the dorm, I came downstairs to find Diablo patiently awaiting our journey.  I placed my oversized plastic milk crate (which was previously a lady at the local markets seat) onto my bike rack and haphazardly through my backpack into it.  I barely pushed my pack down into the crate before I placed my day pack with all of my electronics on top of it, and added my dry bag with my shoes on top as well.

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The lovely Guatemalan Coconut Lady who I bought my blue crate from

With some old rubber ‘ropes’, a dilapidated bungee cord, and some precise measurements (read: I just put tied things down with cords that were already ripping) we took our bikes out of the hostel – I had no idea how heavy / difficult it would be to move the bikes with gear on them.

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After a few tearful (exaggerated for your entertainment) good-byes, our amazing group of six parted ways to various places within Guatemala and Lennart and I were on our way!

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…But not so fast, the cobble stone streets are not very conducive to overly packed road bikes, we had to walk our bikes until we were out of the town – on this journey, my bike tipped over once due to its top heavyness and thus, I had to re-scientifically-attach it to my bike rack and then we were finally off!

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The first town we traversed was Ciudad Vieja – I confirmed with a local the name of the town as we biked by, as there was no “Welcome to (this tiny town)” sign anywhere to be found.  Once you’re off the main tourist track, two Gringos are always a site to see for the locals – especially two gringos with fully loaded bicycles….needless to say they were super excited to see us!

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Onward we pedaled and enjoying some long stretches of downhills, we were flying and I mean flying!  I timed us over the course of a kilometer – the fastest I clocked in was 61 seconds – or in other words, almost exactly 60km/hr or 38 MPH for an extended period of time.  Downhills sure are our friends, those uphills though – definitely an enemy – however, luckily we’re heading for the lower lying coast of El Salvador and we’ll be making plenty of friends.

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Everything went without a hitch, we enjoyed the gorgeous sites along the way until about 18km before our final destination of Escuintla.  We hit a bump in the road….literally.

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A speed bump – a speed bump derailed our perfect day.  We came around a blind corner to a section of about 10 speed bumps leading up to a bridge, and although we attempted to slow with our 1980s breaking mechanisms, the bump jarred loose a screw on Lennart’s bike and his rack was only half attached.  We dismounted from our bikes and as I went to help him…my entire bike fell over as well throwing my gear onto the hot Guatemalan pavement.

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After some masterful duct tape engineering combined with the use of some string – Santo, Lennart’s bicycle, which ironically broke down before Diablo was ready for the road again.  However, Santo was still injured and Lennart had to wear his backpack for the rest of our journey.

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Back on the road we began – 18km to the town of Escuintla, which we know absolutely nothing about.

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Unfortunately for you, there were no other significant shenanigans / issues we ran into for the day, but I was treated to a nice surprise of a Chicken Bus with my home state of Illinois License Plate.

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We ventured through the town – without seeing a single place to sleep, so we parked our bikes, Lennart played guard, and I wandered the town until 30 minute later, I finally found the first place to stay – it was pricey, $13 / night, but it had a pool and a hot tub, so we were sold.  Lennart went for a bite to eat and I went for a swim, what a relief after our first day of biking!  An hour later, we went for dinner (Lennart’s second) and my first and a coconut. 

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We accomplished both these tasks, then found or way into a Billiard Hall…with no one playing billiards, but rather a group of 12-15 men gambling on Domino’s and another dice game, which we’re still not sure what it consisted of.  There were ‘No Smoking’ signs posted, but this didn’t stop the owner from loaning her lighter to some of the shirtless locals as they continued to gamble the night away.  Lenny and I played a few rounds of pool, one of the locals joined us for a game of Cutthroat (the billiard game, not the ‘oh my god, you’re in Guatemala Kyle, are you safe?! that sounds dangerous!’ version)  It was quite the experience and quite an end to the first day of our journey, “El Danger Zone.”  All things considered, we really only had one minor hitch and we finished our day with a few recap videos excited for tomorrow’s travels to begin!  It’s looking to be a 61km day, we shall see though!

Good night everyone!

Categories: Guatemala, Video Blog | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

I went to Mexico…for 78 minutes.

Yesterday was supposed to be one of those tedious days of long bus rides, a nuisance of travel, and stressful border crossings.

It ended up being one hell of a fun adventure involving hitchhiking in a semi truck, sitting four to the front seat of a van going 80+ MPH with the side door open, and meeting the coconut selling version of the “Sloppy Joe Lady” from ‘Billy Madison.’ This doesn’t even account for the van door we saw fly off, locals trying to convince us to ford the river between Guatemala and Mexico – Oregon Trail style, and eventually receiving four new passport stamps.

My four new stamps!

OK, I actually already lied once, yesterday I was going to go to a local town, and instead on a whim, my friend Sonia and I headed for the Mexican border to renew our 90 day Visa’s – she is working here and her time frame was almost expired.  I have only been here for 40 days, but the allotted 90 days are for Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua – it’s known as the CA-4 agreement.  Once I leave Guatemala in the next 10 days or so, I would have only had 40 days left to see the other three countries and this was the closest to the border that I would be – so onward we went.

The chaotic Minerva Market

We wandered through the chaotic Minerva Market in Xela and boarded our first chicken bus, an old American school bus, three to a seat…every seat.  My 6’2″ frame was wedged between Sonia and a Guatemalan man in a seat designed for children.  $2 and 2:15 hrs later, we arrived in Coatepeque to change to a mini bus to the border town Tecun Uman.

A Chicken Bus - Actually not that crowded for chicken bus standards...

We sat in the front next to the driver so that we would not be squished into the back like sardines as is the usual case and Sonia casually joked, “Watch the ayudante put someone on your lap.”  She said this jokingly.  Just my luck…five minutes later, a woman is sitting in the front with us.  The left half of my butt was a solid 3″ higher than my right cheek with my weight pressing on this frail Guatemalan as I put my arm around her attempting to hold my weight on to the door.  As we descended from the mountains of Xela, it began to get hotter and hotter, the driver was going 80, the side door in the back is open for the majority of the time so that people can embark and alight while the van is still moving, and I’m beginning to get dehydrated.  Our next stop – in comes the coconut lady selling coconuts on the street – I hail her from the van (this is very normal, there are always people getting on and off public transportation selling things – anything.) and she comes over cackling like the Wicked Witch of the West.  I attempt to barter with her and she begins to cackle even more, I even told her “You’re scaring me, lady!”  Eventually I obtain the coconut juice and coconut in a “to-go bag” which is also the norm – no cups here, and our driver goes onward at 80 MPH laughing at the entire situation.

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Minutes later, we witness a van’s side door break off and go flying into the ditch.  We couldn’t believe our eyes, but simply took it in stride as it is Guatemala afterall.  An hour later we finally make it to our final destination in a vehicle and began our walk to the border.

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We dodged all of the bicycle tuk-tuks that cost money, and proceeded on foot to the border and paid a 10Q ($1.25 exit fee from Guatemala).

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We entered into Mexico without a hitch, except for the fact that on my immigration ticket, I accidentally marked “Mujer” (female) because I saw the “M”…whoops…oh well…they laughed and they still let me in.  Sonia and I wandered around sweltering Mexico, and I stopped for a beer before we made our way to the river and saw a site we were not expecting…everyone casually illegally crossing between Mexico and Guatemala.

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We took in this absolute site to see and headed back towards customs to leave Mexico….78 minutes after we entered.

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After exchanging 1 Quetzal for 1 Peso (a loss of 50% (read: $0.06)) we left Mexico without a hitch, approached the Guatemalan customs to reentry and the same place we had departed from an hour earlier.  The lady informed us that we could not enter, we had to stay in Mexico for three days.  (Oh, shit….)

Pero, estamos voluntarios y necesitamos regresar a Xela para trabaja manana”

That’s all it took.  10Q ($1.25) later and we were back in Guatemala!

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Our adventure was over…in theory anyway…get on a microbus (always adventureous) and onto a Chicken Bus (even more of a story always) and we’d be back in Xela in just over 3 hours.  This wouldn’t suffice….

Let’s hitch back.
I’m in.
I’m in.

As we got back to the main road of town, I stuck out  my thumb, first pick up went by and on a whim I threw it up again as a semi truck (a lorry for my international readers) drove alongside – it slowed down and began to come to a stop in front of us.

Me:  (Smiling)
Sonia:  “No.way.”

Two seconds later, as if it were straight out of a movie, the passenger door pops open – we run up to it, I climb in, sit behind the passenger seat on the drivers bed next to two other Guatemalans and Sonia grabs shot gun.  After a quick conversation, we’re on our way – what a story, what a day.  An hour plus in the semi, a transfer to our chicken bus on the side of the road and we got back to Xela just before dark.

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Even the ‘tedious days’ while traveling become adventureous.  Every day is a treat, you never know what to expect, and this is why I love travel.  It always keeps you on your toes and tests your comfort zone and teaches you things every single day.  I love it!

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Categories: Guatemala, Mexico | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Welcome from Caye Caulker, Belize

Happy Saturday Everyone!

Yesterday was an exciting day, I officially have my first visitor accompanying me on my journey for these next few weeks.  I met Traci in college at many collegiate water ski tournaments, she skied for Purdue, and we’ve met up several times in Chicago since we each graduated.  Our plan for the next 2+ weeks is diving, relaxing, snorkeling, and having fun in Caye (pronounced: “Key”) Caulker, Belize.  The number one highlight of the week will be diving the Great Blue Hole of Belize!

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The Blue Hole is a massive sink hole about 40 miles off the coast of Belize.  I will dive to the deepest depths I have ever dove, upwards of 140 feet (35m) into the subterranean caverns filled with massive stalagtites.

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Hopefully I’ll be lucky enough that hammerhead sharks will be visiting the Blue Hole that day too!  After this dive, we dive the ‘aquarium’ and another dive site nearby, which I’ve heard from fellow divers have some of the most marine life I will ever see.

Later day, Traci and I plan to swim across “The Split” – which literally is a divide in the key, caused by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 – it literally “split” the island in two.  The north half of Caye Caulker is uninhabited by humans, solely loads of flora and fauna – with our biggest fear / excitement being the crocodile!  We’ve heard of some unspoiled beaches as well – I’ll let you know how it goes!

The previous four days, I’ve been exploring the ancient Mayan city of Lamanai and two lazy days in the sleepy peninsula village of Placencia in Southern Belize.

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Lamanai

I journey to Lamanai via a 26 mile high speed boat ride, it was very much like the Everglades – we saw loads of Mangroves and plant life as we winded through the river on the way to our final destination.

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Lamanai was really cool – the largest ancient structure in Lamanai, is actually the third highest structure in Belize today.  (Photo 1,2,3 above)  The highlight for me however was seeing Olmec carved into stone.  One on each side of the final temple we saw:

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I really enjoyed Lamanai.  I experienced my first rainforest downpour while we were exploring the ruins, and had fantastic views from the top of the ancient temples. 

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Lamanai, meaning Submerged Crocodile, was a great day trip.  After exploring the village of Orange Walk, I trekked to Placencia the following day, to the only place in Belize with ‘actual beaches.’  The entire Peninsula was sandy, less the one road in town.  The second main ‘road’ in town is called “Sidewalk Street” – which is literally a sidewalk through the sand, and the Guiness Book of World Records has recognized it as the narrowest main road in the world.

I spent two days here lazying around on the beach, hanging out with fellow hostelmates, and exploring the island with a local met.  I also took the opportunity to have some fun with this facial hair that I’ve been growing out for quite some time. 

What do you think? 

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I think I look ridiculous, but I also find it hilarious.  I’ve been rocking the “Hulk Hogan” for two days now, I can’t even take myself seriously, and I’m probably going to make it a full blown Movember-stache later today, I’ll post pictures for your laughter later.  I’m off to enjoy Caye Caulker now, just have to pry myself out of this hammock first.  ;-)

I’ll leave you with a few more pics of Placencia and HAPPY WEEKEND EVERYONE!!

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Categories: Belize | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Kyle Does the Macarena….

The day is November 5th and it’s looking to be a lazy day wandering through Valladolid, Mexico.  We began with a stop at the local market, a market unlike one I’ve seen before, one that was be shut down in the snap of your fingers in the USA for health codes. image I played it safe and bought some ‘pan dulce’ literally translating as ‘bread treats’ – they were essentially delicious dough candies along with some pumpkin seeds. imageManuella bought some mini bananas, sweeter than a typical banana and I had to entertain myself with this glorious picture outside the market:

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Call Me, Maybe?

We grabbed a quick snack from the local stand across the street with this glorious view of town, we’re in true Mexico here, and these converted bikes are every where.  They’re used for transporting people, water, goods, or setting up your own street food stand – it’s incredible.  Mexican’s are unbelievably resourceful and harder working than any one I have ever seen before. image After eating, we continued to wander across town, saw some old churches, chicks, puppies, and bunnies for sale all in the same vendors door step, and even stopped into a chocolate shop – all don by hand. image image image

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2-3 hrs to roll the chocolate

Our final destination of this walk across town was the oldest building in town, followed by a dip in the town cenote, Zaci, to cool off at the end of this scorching day.  A few blocks short of our destination, I suggested we take a side road instead of the main road, and this whimsical decision ended up becoming the story of the day.  As we wandered down this side street, there were a group of girls ahead walking towards us…and they were doing the macarena.  Typical, right?  That’s what we all do in the street on a Monday afternoon?  So, what am I to do – obviously begin doing the macarena myself and encourage the girls to join along.  They continued right into my path and we blended perfectly all sharing a laugh in the mean time….

Even for me, this is one of the more random experiences of my life and I’m so happy I had my camera on hand to capture the moment.  Once our laughter subsided, we trekked on the final two blocks.  We made it to the oldest building in town, relaxed for a moment, and then the Swedes and I threw around my frisbee while soaking in the hot Mexican sun prior to heading for the cenote – worthy of a whole post of it’s own! image

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A Day at the Local Bar

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Wow.  Never saw this day coming – ever.

A long night of the aforementioned Day of the Dead celebration in the hostel lead to a slow moving morning the next day.  Harrison and I went for a stroll through Valladolid around noon – I was craving Mexican (as usual – the food is beyond phenomenal) and Harrison, who has been living in the Canary Islands and Italy for the past 9 months, desperately craved Domino’s no matter how touristy it was.  I stopped into a little shop, which had a few bowls of meat sitting inside an encasing and ordered three empanada’s and a taco, which she went on to prepare in her personal kitchen in the background of the photo.

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We stopped in the main square with the church from my previous post as I ate my food.  In the main square they have conjoined chairs, which face eachother – they’re absolutely brilliant!

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After I devoured my tacos, we wandered to Domino’s which was ridiculously expensive for a backpackers budget, and we went back to the shop that I ate at for Harrison to grab some food too.  We arrived and she told us “No tengo mas comida” (“I don’t have any more food”) – it took me a second to grasp this concept, but then I realized, she only prepares and sells a set amount of food each day – to be fair, it’s a great idea, but it was hard for me to wrap my head around the concept on only day 5 in Mexico.

This is why/when our adventure began.  We continued walking further away from the main square and heard loud music – we sarcastically said, “Sounds like a party, let’s check it out.”  I wandered in and saw nothing at first, then went around the corner and found a bar with five locals sitting at it and one bartender.  We asked him if he had food, as Harrison was starving, and he said, “No, not really.”  Regardless, we decided to split a 1.2 liter (essentially a 40oz) of beer (standard drinking size in this part of the country) and the bartender brought us over orange slices, and an unknown vegetable with chile sauce.

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We decide to get a second 1.2 liter beer, each buying a “round” of….one beer, and I asked where the bathroom was….

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It was simply the “backyard” to the bar…

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After we finished our second beer, and had spoken to the bartender several times – a new beer showed up on our table without us ordering one, one of the locals had sent us a beer – we appreciated it and wanted to return the favor and then some.  After all, this was a really unique experience for us, but it also was for them as well – the bartender said he gets about one gringo per month who visits, so we doubled his quota for November in one day.

You’re asking how did we return the favor?

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Next thing you know, after the round, I’m in the arms of one of the locals at the far end of the bar and we’re all having a great laugh.  I’m translating as much Spanish as I can for Harrison and he begins speaking Italian to them.  We had a riot.

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In addition to all the fun we had, we did some networking to… the guy on the left in the photo below is Adrian, he was a life guard at the Hubiku Cenote (Mexican sink hole filled with water, below ground) and Freddy (not pictured) worked at the tequila museum at the cenote (seriously).  They said they’d hook us up if we came to visit – which we did the next day with the Swedes and they held true to their word as well.  It was a great day!

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And the night ended up…as usual…with me in a dance off….enjoy!

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Categories: Mexico | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Mexico – Week 1

Que Pasa Mundo?!

I never would’ve have thought that with absolutely no plans or schedule that I would not have any time either – but such has been the case on my travels.  I’ve been on the road for 19 days (I think?) and this is the first moment that I have been 100% alone.  I have so much to catch you up with and I’m excited to share it with you!  In my head I’ve been trying to figure out a balance as to how I’m going to accomplish this with quality work, but also keeping you informed.

 

My journey began in Cancun and within minutes I was friends with a Scotish, a Mexican, and later met a Brit. I spent the day wandering non-touristy Cancun and the next day at the beach. It was a great assimilation into the Mexican culture before heading to ‘true’ Mexico.

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After 48 hours in Cancun, I was ready to take off and I asked Harrison if he wanted to join me to Valladolid – two hours inland. After a quick google search, he was in. We wandered through town and Harrison ran into a guy he flew from England with in the main square of town. Quite a small world, but I’ve learned to grow accustomed to this, as it has continually happened over these past three weeks.

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In the hostel that night, we met three Swedes and planned to visit Chichen Itza with them the next day. En route in our collectivo – a van taxi which picks up people on the road and stops where ever you would like along a route – we passed by a Mexican cleaning the hedges with his machete which I asked him for his photo and he responded (as has become the norm when we’re off the beaten path) “GRIIIIIIIIIINGOS!!!”

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The six of us got a tour once inside Chichen Itza – learned all about the Mayans and wandered throughout the expansive city.

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I bought a little kerchief from this lovely local

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After awhile of shops, Harrison and I stopped with this lovely local selling things, and she happened to have tequilla….or so we thought. We took a picture with her and walked away to take our shots and then found out that it was simply dyed water. Lesson learned – even the most innocent looking people you have to be wary of.

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It was a long day in the heat and far too expensive for my liking. The day ended up being $90USD, triple what I’ve been spending on other days throughout the trip.

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After a long evening of another Day of the Dead celebration with everyone in the hostel, the Swedes, and the Brits, we called it a night – never would I have guessed what the next day had in store for me….

Categories: Mexico | Tags: , , | 3 Comments